I was up at six this morning, shivering in my sleeping bag. It had continued to rain all night, and there was a freezing mist surrounding the coast as I packed up. Dressing in cold, wet Lycra is not a pleasant experience – especially if you don’t start moving straight away. I had a half hour wait for the first ferry of the day – a 10 minute hop from Ørnes to Vassdalsvik, and spent the wait sheltering behind the ticket shed. Not a pleasant start to the day.

Once in Vassdalsvik I had a 30km sprint to make the next ferry from Jetvik to Kilbogahamn. I arrived in enough time to make a cup of coffee on the quey side, just as the rain was clearing. The crossing took about an hour, and is the longest I have on the costal route.

Shortly after getting off the ferry, i crossed a significant landmark – I’m now outside the Arctic Circle! The Arctic Circle marks the area in which there is at least one 24 hour period of total sunlight, and one of total darkness a year – so hopefully I’ll get some dark at night now! The weather continued to improve this afternoon, and I was treated to some fairly spectacular scenery – a marked difference from yesterday’s visability! Towards the end of today’s cycle, I had a huge climb along the side of Sørfjorden, that offered awesome views along the coast. I spent an hour in the sunshine at the top, drying my tent out, drinking coffee and reading. Eventually I coasted downhill to Nesna, where I pitched my tent, and managed to find a disposable barbecue in a local supermarket! I spent the evening barbecuing sausages in the sunshine, reflecting on how a day that starts looking bleak can end so well.

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